Put this number in this field. It's usually high ninety's unless you're at high altitude. Lastly, the 'Close Loop kpa limit' setting. This we've got set to 20 kPa. This tells the MSPNP to go into open loop mode any time the kpa reading is more than 20 kpa away from what you see in the table on the right. You'll notice we've got the table on the right set to all 70's. That's intentional. We want the boost control to operate in open loop mode, and then is how you make that happen.
Burn this and try it. See if your boost increases ANY at all over your wastegate only boost levels. Burn it and test it. Datalogging and comparing how much boost you made. The pulls need to be in the same gear with all conditions identical, preferably on a dyno, though a track could work if you have a long consistent straight that you can pull 3rd or 4th gear from before the turbo spools maybe rpm on up to redline, repeatedly, in a safe environment.
You're looking for when you start making more boost. When you do then you can start fine tuning at different RPM ranges. Adding a little more here, pulling a little out there, moving around the RPM columns to make it do what you want it to do, reviewing your logs in MegaLogViewer to see what the results of each pull are.
The GT turbo in our 91 Miata shop car is fully spooled to You can see in this table at higher revs it took less DC as the turbo was wanting to make more boost so we had to pull the boost controller back some to control it. Bottom line, start at low DC's, make small changes, and analyze the results of each pull. Remember that as you add boost you're getting into previously untuned areas of your fuel and spark tables and you'll need to adjust those.
MegaTune will start recording, and continue saving a data log until you close MegaTune or turn the logging off. You can then play back these logs with MegaLogViewer to see if your tuning delivers the right air-fuel ratios throughout the RPM range, or use this to spot problems with the tune.
However dyno time is very expensive diagnostic time-- you want to have your car sorted before you go. You don't want to show up to the dyno with your MSPNP in the box along with your set of cc injectors and new boost controller Go ahead and get the car running on the configuration you'll be tuning before you get there.
If you're removing the AFM, go ahead and do that as a separate stage as well, testing afterwards. The idea is to make only one change at a time, so that if there is an issue somewhere you know where to start looking. Pre-Dyno Maintenance-- Make sure there are no leaks, you've got fresh oil, fresh plugs and good wires, your air filter is clean, etc.
You should probably also gap them a bit tighter than stock. You wouldn't believe how many people get their car to the dyno and aren't ready to have their car on the dyno! Be ready! After tuning set it back to 1. After tuning set it back to Have a qualified tuner dial it in on a steady state dyno. Loading it into each cell and tuning fuel first, and then doing the same tuning ignition, finally tuning higher throttle doing ramp runs on up to WOT ramp runs.
That's my preferred method anyways, your mileage may vary. Cranking PW, Warmup Enrichments, and AfterStart Enrichments could need fine tuning as well though they are probably close enough to serve you pretty well without adjustment.
Lastly is cruise tuning, which they may have been able to hit on the dyno or may not have been able to. It's sometimes easier to do while actually cruising with the actual load you'll have on the car in a real life cruise situation. You'll be looking for good gas mileage and drivability here while minimizing emissions.
No, we are not able to cover an MSPNP under warranty if you open the case and make any changes inside it. But if you want to modify the MSPNP to use a throttle position sensor, control nitrous, or add other capabilities, you can. This section simply covers the specifics of dealing with the MSPNP adapter board as well as some Miata-specific information.
The MSPNP has a header with eight pins for using the top row of wires in the center connector for spare inputs and outputs. This header lets you add wires for using spare inputs or outputs. Each header pin connects to the pin with the corresponding number on the center connector. There are also two holes for extra unused wires in the ribbon cable.
Here is a diagram of which of these jumpers in the header correspond to what jumper on the main board. On the outside middle connector these pins are numbered from left to right on the top row, and from left to right on the bottom row. If you need more input or output wires, you can run some custom jumpers from the spare header on the MSPNP adapter board to whatever circuit you have constructed on the main board.
The stock switch-type throttle position sensor does not provide very much useful information to MegaSquirt, so it is not connected. These are the "through-hole" resistors on the daughter board, not the surface mount R6 and R7 resistors on the V3. Then you will need to connect the TPS signal and reference wires to the Miata harness. This picture shows where to change the wiring. At the throttle position switch plug, you will have three wires.
If you have modified the MSPNP as described, the red will supply a 5 volt reference voltage, the green and white wire will take the signal back to the MegaSquirt, and the black and green wire will provide a ground. Observe the resistance as the throttle opens and closes. Each pair of pins will behave differently:.
The resistance between the ground and signal pins will be low with the throttle closed and high with the throttle wide open. The resistance between the 5 volt and signal pins will be high with the throttle closed and low with the throttle wide open. Installing it is no different from installing an upgraded MAP sensor on a regular MegaSquirt, except that the location of JS5 has moved a little bit. Once you have installed the MAP sensor upgrade, there are a couple of changes to make.
One is in the MegaTune Configurator. Once you have made this change, go to the File menu and save your settings. Go to the Basic Settings menu and bring up Engine Constants 1. This screen allows you to specify which MAP sensor you are running. Specify that you have an extra MAP fitted to X7 an older name for the barometric correction port dating back to the V2.
This can be handy if you are driving through major elevation changes. The MSPNP is not designed to control emissions equipment and is not intended for use on pollution controlled vehicles. Check local and federal laws before you even consider such a thing. Disconnect the ignitor when reloading code, and load a valid MSPNP map before connecting the ignitor. Leaving the ignitor connected when loading code will damage the ignitor. Verify that any tuning files you have from other users work correctly on your car, as they may be tuned for different modifications.
Make sure your unit is properly tuned for your engine before racing or otherwise pushing your engine to or near its limits.
It is not able to accurately measure air at higher boost pressure levels. The knock sensing input is designed for use with a KnockSenseMS external amplifier. It is not designed for use with other aftermarket knock amplifiers, or for connecting a knock sensor directly. If you use pin 10 for wideband oxygen input, you must disconnect the stock oxygen sensor. Do not ground the oxygen sensor wire if you disconnect it; leave it completely unconnected.
Do not plug an S-Video monitor or anything other than a DIYAutotune serial adapter cable or equivalent into the four pin socket. The AutoTune function in MegaTune needs to be used with caution. Make sure that the target settings are appropriate and the wideband sensor is working correctly before engaging AutoTune, and check the tuning afterwards to make sure it is working correctly and add any fine-tuning necessary.
No computer can replace a qualified tuner…. And have you ever seen what happens to a wideband o2 at wide-open-throttle, or anytime really, when it overheats which is common on an untuned engine that still has too little ignition advance? The sensor starts reading crazy numbers. Do you? They are thoroughly researched, engineered, and tested; and properly installed and tuned should provide you with many years of use.
Your MegaSquirtPNP product is covered under this warranty for defects in workmanship or materials for 1 year from the date of purchase. Obviously this warranty cannot cover units that have been modified by the end user to extend functionality. Alternately you may void this warranty by failing to read and follow the documentation contained within this manual completely.
Products returned for service must be securely packed to prevent damage, and shipped charges prepaid. Include proof of purchase and the RMA number supplied by the representative authorizing the return. All products shall remain under warranty for the remainder of their original warranty period.
Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts or the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. Everything has warning labels… While most of the warnings about this will appear in the text discussing what the warning is about, there are a few words of caution before you start installing your MSPNP, to make sure it is appropriate for your Miata.
Section Two: Installation Overview of connectors Some of the features on the MSPNP box are rather obvious why they are there, such as the holes to mount it or the logo on the top to let everyone know what EMS you are running. Leaving it in place can void your warranty! You should not put it back in when you finish installation. Remove the right hand door trim panel. Pull back the carpet to expose the ECU cover panel at the front of the foot well.
Unbolt the ECU cover panel. Needle nose pliers will help with removing this. Remove the wiring harness from the ECU. Now it is time to route the MAP line. Pop the plug out and drill a hole in it. The hole should be just large enough to run the hose through. Run the hose halfway through the plug. Feed the hose in through the hole in the engine compartment. You will probably find the hose before you find the hole.
From the engine side, stick a screwdriver thru the hole pointing down, use it to push the insulation back a bit. From inside have someone feel behind the insulation for the screwdriver, this will help them to locate the hole.
From the engine side, remove the screwdriver and push the hose thru the hole and down. Feed it thru while someone pulls it thru from the inside.
Route the hose under the hood to the front of the intake manifold. Basically remove extra slack and make sure to avoid any moving parts. This blue line shows a suggested route. Cut the MAP hose to length and connect it to the nipple behind the throttle body as shown. If you pull up that insulation on the floorpan there are two raised ribs that line up perfectly to mount it to. Power, performance, optimal efficiency; the objectives of almost any tuner, the key to achieving these objectives is in the data produced by your engine.
To achieve these objectives you must know what your engine is asking for or it will never run its best. Captured Data logs are where a modern EFI controlled engine asks. But capturing data is only the first step; you then need simple ways to understand what that data means, what your engine is asking for. Being able to easily select, navigate and compare data fields is critical, but there is more.
You want to see the whole story, not just at log traces 1 by 1 in a limited way. To get the full picture you need to see how different fields are related and affect one another, how it all ties together. You need the right tools to work with your data. Suddenly that data becomes so much easier to see and understand, you can sort through vast amounts of data in simple comprehensible views, then act on it.
Upgrade Now! Sensor Air Temp. Search the manual:. Assembling Your v2. The V3. If your V3. See here for more details. This can control up to 8 forward speeds and eight shift solenoids plus a 16x9 table for controlling a PWM line pressure valve. It has manual and fully automatic modes 16x9 load x speed table , with under and over rev-limit protection, 'paddle' shift buttons, and full data logging of all inputs and outputs among many other abilities.
Introduction Specific Transmissions:. Click here to purchase a GPIO kit. Introduction Assembly Guide Hardware Ordering.
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